Appalachian Home Cooking: History, Culture & Recipes
Mark F. Sohn
Review by Becky Holliday

Home cooking has long served as an ambassador of goodwill, unlimited by boundaries, politics, religion, culture, or demographics. Each ingredient in every recipe that makes up a meal reflects the people, place, and time of its origin. To understand a region, share a table filled with food prepared by its inhabitants, and you'll experience a cultural exchange more powerful than the most successful world summit.

Appalachian Home Cooking: History, Culture & Recipes
Mark F. Sohn
University Press of
Kentucky; 384 pages;
6 x 9; Paper, $26
ISBN 0-8131-9153-X

Mark Sohn knows the value of this analogy and uses his in-depth knowledge, personal experience, and creative talents to take the reader deep within the historic roots of Appalachian mountain culture. Thru his eyes, we're introduced to these private, resourceful people and learn to understand their faith, resourcefulness, and courage.

Appalachian Home Cooking, you see, is more than a collection of recipes--it's a fascinating, often humorous study of the history and folklore surrounding the area's food sources, their growth, and the trade value among the moun tain people. We learn the use as well as the story behind a thirty-inch, twenty-pound cushaw squash, get acquainted with a pawpaw, discuss the merits of a souse, and find a new definition for "leather breeches."

The second main section of the book showcases more than eighty traditional recipes. Dishes ranging from fried ramps to chow chow to country-style barbeque ribs had us ready to pack up the napkins and deviled eggs and head out for a country picnic.

Sohn uses the pages of his book to provide the tools necessary for a reader to cultivate, prepare, and participate in an authentic Appalachian experience. We're challenged and tempted to explore this culture with a glossary of food terms and expressions as well as a list of area festivals and events. Recipes have been updated for the contemporary cook without losing their original flavor or intent. And the author openly shares his resources and research to encourage further study of the Appalachian people and their way of life.

The mail-order section of this handy reference guide provides descriptions and complete contact information for a number of purveyors of hard-to-find ingredients and even finished goods including everything from Native American food sources, creasy greens, country ham or sausage, and bourbon balls.

Sohn artfully points out the romance and intrigue, pride and struggle involved in the evolution of mountaineers. His powerful descriptions paint vivid pictures of aching backs that toiled in the fields, weary feet that trudged countless miles in search of game, frugal homemakers who coaxed the last bit of life and flavor from materials the contemporary cook throws out.

Sections such as "Food for the Spirit: Dinner on the Grounds"—not to mention the recipe for Scripture Cake—encourage nostalgic memories of Sunday socials. Numerous songs and poems, some meant to accompany mixing the batter or churning the butter, take us inside Appalachia's humor and poetry. Even the folk song
"She'll Be Coming Round the Mountain" takes on a new interpretation after spending time with this book.

Appalachian Home Cooking is a book that rewards readers for the time they spend perusing its pages. It's a delightful read I highly recommend.

Becky Holliday's bio appears with the article, "Pondering the Potato."

Winter 2006 · Volume 2, Number 1 southernarts JOURNAL pp175-176